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A Day In Masiphumelele
Written by Dan Kirchner

Jeffy is 22 years old. He lives in a township with his wife and his two year old son, Tumi. He takes an overcrowded minibus-taxi in the morning to the train station followed by a 30 minute train ride to get to work. He works as an assistant mechanic in a little home run garage for R800 a week. He is lucky; he has a job. He hates the government and the system in general. Last year cops beat him because he told them he had rights. He wants revenge; he talks about killing all the cops, one at a time until there are none left. His eyes still have the innocent spark of youth and you can not imagine him killing. He knows the government is corrupt and has had enough of all the injustices in the world he lives in. He wants a better life for himself and his family. He wants to get out of here; out of this country. He has had enough of getting his hands greasy everyday.

He is the new generation of black Africans. South Africa is full of Jeffy. Their parents fought for their freedom; their rights as a human being. The government changed 10 years ago but a lot has stayed the same; the blacks will always be seen as black in this country.

Jeffy, along with his friend Gilbert, took us through the township he lives in called Masiphumelele or “just make it through”. The first few roads in the township are paved and the houses are small brick structures. Soon the paved roads give way to gravel roads lined with rickety shacks built from corregated metal and odd scraps of wood and finally only a network of polluted dirt trails weave between the decrepit lean-tos so many call home. As we walk deeper into the township an irrepressible feeling of despair is evoked. The overt poverty almost compels you to take some sort of imminent action. Yet amongst this perceived bleak mendicancy, the people greet you with a smile, seem happy, look clean and children are generally not suffering from malnutrition.

About five years ago, electricity was brought into the township. A number of Shebeens now blast music around the clock. We stop in one of the Shebeen's and I play pool with some of the locals. Beer only comes in 650ml bottles and is cheaper than the regular sized bottles outside of the township. A bottle costs just R6! The music blares from the caged jukebox at full volume and my head still pounds from the previous night out. Several upturned beer crates serve as seating around the pool table with the more deluxe seating consisting of an old battered bench seat stripped from a car in the distant past.

Jeffy takes us to a small meat shop where we purchase an assortment of meats that we would braai on a grill right next to the road. We feel comfortable and never perceive any threat or danger.

Later Jeffy invites us into his home. His house consists of a mere four walls with a corregated tin roof. Thin beams of sunlight are filtering through the holes in the corregated roof, but Jeffy assures us that the rain doesn't come through! A window has been blown out during that last big wind storm and is now covered up with a piece of cardboard. We sit on his bed while he and Gilbert sit on the floor. Hours pass as we talk about life in the township, life in South Africa, and life as a black. In return we talked about life back in Canada. Jeffy introduced us to one of his best friends, a well kempt and articulate young man. This was the first time he had met someone from overseas and he spoke to us with great enthusiasm. We sensed an overwhelming appreciation for our visit and time spent in the township. We truly felt privliged and grateful to be sharing these memorable moments with our newly acquainted friends.

We had left our Land Rover parked outside of Jeffy's house for the day. Unable to lock the broken doors, I had been a little worried about the tools that I had left in the back. At the end of the day, I found everything as I had left it.

Most white South Africans will tell you not to go through a township and speak of the perils. But like almost anywhere, it is just a matter of being in the wrong place at the wrong time. As for us, we had a great day in Masiphumelele, met a lot of welcoming people and were able to get a little better idea of what the life of most people in South Africa is like.

Jeffy, we wish you the best of luck with your life's endeavours! Take care.